Journey

THE KUMBHA 2019

A SPIRITUAL QUEST

THE KUMBHA 2019 ALLAHABAD (PRAYAG)

– A prep for 2028 at Ujjain

 

You grow up with grown-ups who make you believe that there is a Heaven act good and a Hellfire for bad act (as adults see it). It is only when you yourself become a real adult, not just in age, a realization evolves defining the locations of these places is with-in, every moment of each day, as a part of your action plan called karma.

In Hindu mythology, now a belief accepted in the global spiritual quest, birth and rebirth is a continnum, and thus the journey of birth and death continues unless one goes beyond.

One of the very important decision for destination Kumbha.

As a filmmaker and creative writer, Kumbha Mela has resonated within me since the charm of hindi films entered the veins with early footsteps of teenage years. We are well aware of the lost and found generation of 60’s and 70’s “Seeta-Geeta’s” or “Ram aur Shyam” amidst varied others, that made our adrenalin rush to find the finale of bichdon ka milaap!

Kumbha or Kumbh Mela, that arrives in 12 year periodicals, by a celestial design (and some calculations!) has become a mass movement, attracting travellers from all joinres’ of worldwide settings – for reasonable and unreasonable quest and questioning. In India, it is a lifetime decision destination to go beyond re-birthing by washing away your sins in one dip (or two or many) in the sangam of Ganges and the Yamuna, with an invisible layer of river Saraswati floating with-in!

This year, my sins also decided to plunge-in to check these merging waters!

Allahabad or Prayag was where millions were heading to their calling. As my travel obsessed mind research through a faster pace of travel by air, I found none. Train travel was a passe’ since years of fastest mobility. But this time, the sins were leading my path (Ha! Ha!), and thus I booked myself with my best-ie in the best-est (Best friend in First AC) in Prayag Raj Express Train.

It was a transformational experience of its creative best! Beautiful painted exteriors, snow white sheets, spotless clean toilets – Swacch Bharat at its very best!

It was when we landed on the location – with a shocking disbelief, all of my visual eyes could see were heads of people on a spreadout earth matter!

 

It was a camerawoman’s voyeuristic delight, clicking whosoever and whatsoever crossed my lens of virtual eyes. While I, in midst of this human ocean, became somewhat unmoveable. I stood still, my eyes closed, ears strained – all on their own. I could hear was various forms of voices that were not human. And then, a call from an ancient past reverberated. I visualised my deceased grandmother sitting with priests around a massive havan kund – chanting; the chanting growing louder; and then a different musical instrument sieved through my ear buds like a bhajan; then as if saints of Darbar sahib were singing morning kirtan…the sounds surrounded me with crystal clear waves engulfing me with- in….till I was jostled out of this trance by our friends, realising that we were standing to take the holy dip!

 

The Human Se(e)a…

There lay a clear demarcation of the Ganges and the Yamuna – a sight that was mesmerising and deepening one’s quest for more. The boatride reverberating with sacred chats Har Har Gange was elevating human consciousness in it’s purest form. The boatman insisted that I must fill my bottle with the purest water on mother earth. Although my logic sense had refusal at it’s helm, what with hundreds bathing and sandy water, but something pulled me in to fill-up the bottle – which to my astonishment, I found not a grain of sand upon my arrival home!

In all my years, I have been unable to explain the time and journey travelled in-between till I reached on the banks of the Ganges. It reverberated of a deep silence within, where all external noises seemed to fade into an oblivion. It was later that I could relate to this silence while meditating on “Om” in years of my spiritual journey, where I moved from a verbal to a non-verbal chant, which I can now hear “Om” reverberating with-in. It was also a silence that you can feel between the sound of wind passing through mountains, when there is an absence of human foot-step. It is like the invisible love energy of Saraswati that flows between visible vibrancy of romance between the Ganga and Yamuna.

That is what you can hear at the Kumbha if you stand in stillness amidst the “shor” – it is called the sound of one hand clapping. That is Godliness.

I bathed and bathed; it was as if purity flowed with-in, washing away all my fears, sorrows and even happiness – making me serene and what I have later realised on my spiritual path – with the nectar of immortal bliss.

There is a lot more to my story with the journey into camps of unusual saints, women groups and others – but that would need to be experienced, and cannot be verbalized. That journey started the quest of another dream, which led me into reading of Kumbha, its mythological and spiritual significance. Kumbha, is much more and beyond what has been spoken and written “about it.” Kumbha, today has a greater significance than it ever did. It is this generation of youth that must be encouraged to understand its importance, linking it to the modern times globally.

When we ask the question “ Why go to the Kumbha?” The answers have all been “ to see what is;” Let us try and see “why and what there is beyond the perception of the naked eye.”

Kumbha calls me again now in 2028. I do not know if there will be survival of the body for another dip. It has changed my path into a spiritual quest. I wish the same for others. It is a life changing journey. I encourage the youth especially, to travel towards it.

Har Har Mahadev!

TRAVEL TIPS

• Book in advance. There are many variables, but for luxury tents, please check with a local to do a reccee. We were very disappointed with ours!
• Do not travel on the last days of Kumbha. Everything is dismantled, bidding goodbye, including arrangements at your place of stay.
• You will need to be a smart negotiator with Boat rides to go for a dip.
• There are many e-rickshaws available. But prepare yourself to walk a lot on sand, as the area around river is cordoned off

VIGNETTES of KUMBHA

Old Delhi Food Trail

Old Delhi Food Trail: Hop, Scotch & Jump!

A day in the life of gastrointestinal and gustatory cells JJ

Ye dilli hai meri jaan….

Yahan ishq, mohabbat, pyaar…

That is what Dilli – 6 reflects; in its meandering by-lanes, of mysterious stories that old walls speak of an era of Shahjahanabad, the tinkle of rainbow coloured bangles with its tell-tale story of love – Old Delhi releases its fragrances not only from the itr (perfume), but also from the food trail that can be traced back to 18^th century.

The right way to walk straight into the century, is to begin your “ 5 AM Club” at Paranthewaali galli with Gaya Prasad Shiv Charan – which is not the man himself, but a legacy of about 60-70 varieties of delicious paranthas, a savoury of every Punjabi household culture

 

Order as you like it

“ Karela (Bitter gourd) parantha”, “ Nimboo (Lemon) Parantha”, “Mixed vegetable”….well, the list is as endless as your taste buds.

Beware of your desires: Do not load yourself full, as there is yet a long trail ahead!

 

 

 

THIS IS THE WAY TO FRY, FRY & DEEP FRY ……

Long and meandering bylanes not only offer a search for authentic street food, but give a glimpse of colour symmetry of bangles, hair adornments, footwear and all the “dilli 6 maal” (goods) – in case they can tempt to divert your attention for a stopover.

Although your belly needs the parantha break, but dil maange mor as your nose buds get lured into flavour of pure desi ghee at the most famous Shiv Misthan bhandar, where the queque is endless – both, of jalebis and foodies.

 

 

YOU ARE AS PROLIFIC AS THE JALEBI YOU EAT…

Your gastrointestinal cells (stomach) and gustatory cells (taste buds) have put a full stop, but your desirous needs burp ahead, as the clock strikes 1, and your passion catches 1942’s King of Naan at Kake di Hatti dangling its 18 inches deliciously cooked Naan in front of your voyeuristic taste buds.

Kake di Hatti is a small one storeyed food joint, where one finds intellectual slogan-eering hanging across its walls, giving you food and thought for life while you wait for that longest in size served naan with varied fillings that range from potatoes, paneer and a mix of onion. Not to miss the special “Maa (mother) ki daal (black lentil)” (I have often wondered, what has motherhood got to do with naming this black lentil anyways??! Answer perhaps lies in the bed of heaviness one feels after devouring it – as if you need to lie in your mum’s lap with as an immediate effect!).

 

 

 

While you can barely manage to climb downstairs, with your eyes drooping, there is a nudge that lifts up your chin to catch Giani’s since 1956 that pulls your body parts with the eyes wide open to halwas – the moong daal ( a kind of lentil), gajar (carrot) and what not…..making it almost criminal, if not tasted!

With packed bags of food hanging on a weight – loaded body, you feel almost nostalgic with pain ( is it your stomach or the heart) bidding adieu to Dilli 6 – till we eat and meet again!

A MYSTERIOUS LANDSCAPE

A MYSTERIOUS LANDSCAPE

– Arunachal Pradesh 

There are some parts of the world that, once visited, get into your heart and won’t go. For me, INDIA is such a place.

– Keith Bellows, National Geographic Society

 

For me, after travelling almost half of the globe, the discovery of Arunachal Pradesh in India has been a Nirvana.

I feel, the mysterious land of farthest North Eastern part of India that beckoned my spiritual soul, thus enlivening each pore into a speechless sojourn. The astonishing sights after every 5 km of drive of cascading waterfalls, dazzling colours of flora and fauna sprung into surprise crevices of rocky mountains, spectrum shades of aqua changing colours as per directives of the sun – Arunachal is the destination that a travellers spiritual dreams are made of.

Journey to Arunachal is a road less travelled, due to it’s has a lack of connectivity from major airports of the country. Although Arunachal’s mystery can be unravelled from any part of the State, but I tried the most alluring route leading to Tawang lying at 15000 ft. of Indo-China border.

I stepped into bordering State Assam by flight from Delhi to Guwhati in the misty weather of October-November, the best time to visit. Picked by my friendly companion driver Aziz, my spiritual quest was to visit the very famous Kamakhya Devi (Godess of strength and valour) in Guwhati. Kamakhya history is seeped in mysticism, occult and tantric traditions of Hindu religion, with some ancient and medieval facts that relate from 8^th to 17^th century.

The temple Godess or Shakti proclaims a sacrifice to be done at her altar, which I refused to do so, as I believe that no sacrifice of an innocent animal is required to please the “Mother” Kamakhya. It’s traditional Sindoor or red vermillion, which is supposed to be a blessing for desire fulfilment from the depth of its garbhagriha (cave like structure with-in deep down mother earth) which has shape of Yoni (female genital – that I could not see in the darkness of lamp light), was what I considered a blessing from beyond.

After an auspicious beginning, my climb to Arunachal was a 10 hour drive from Guwhati to Bomdila, with-in the most swirling roads that led into a steep uphill task of my big vehicle, a must for driving anywhere around Arunachal Pradesh. The long drive has never a tiring moment, as one is rejuvenated by nature’s gift of flora and fauna adorning the trees that bow down to welcome you to this land.

With its borders giving you a glimpse of Army camps at various places, Bomdila lies in the North-Western part of Arunachal Pradesh. A quaint town and a district headquarter, Bomdila is the seat of one of the largest monasteries of Arunachal Pradesh, besides famous Tawang.  Gentse Gaden Rabgyel Lling monastery, built in 1965, it is situated at 8500 hundred feet above sea level. Young Buddhist lamas are taught the spiritual nuances and these young minds have a laughter of a thousand Buddhas.

Kamakhya Blessing

At Bomdilla Monastery

I was blessed to have had the opportunity to celebrate my most auspicious day of birth amongst the chanting of lamas in their prayer hall under the Buddha’s glorious blessed feet. The Monastery celebrates it’s annual Mask Dance festival, and the colour of demons with dramatic musical background score – is once in a lifetime experience, not to be missed.

BOMDILA MONSTERY

The hospitality of Armed forces, with their disciplined extension in their personality and surroundings have kept the land of Arunachal as nature had bestowed – ‘sparkling’ clean! Be it the majestic mountainous paths or the water gushing across meandering roads, the Army jawans are deputed to keep the ‘gift’ of nature, blessed.

In my fortunate journey, I was welcomed by Major BB Thapa and his colleagues on a tour of their border and given an opportunity to salute the martyr at 10,000 ft.  besides a served sumptuous breakfast that was truly a treat after having eaten boiled food for umpteen days – as a vegetarian, you have minimalistic choices! As a civilian, one constantly hears the stories of the tough life of jawans bordering and protecting, but it is only when one sees their living braving the terrain and weather to stand erect under any adversary, the hand spontaneously goes up to salute the brave!

A SALUTE …. TO THE BRAVE

No journey in Arunachal can be complete without a visit to Buddha’s land and birth place of sixth Dalai Lama, Tawang. The quote “journey is the destination” stands as epitome of truth while travelling from Bomdilla to Tawang. Crossing small hilly town of Dirang, with its farm cultivation (more popularly called “Jhum”) on hilltops, leading to a tough spiral terrain, you climb and enter “the clouds.” It is as if God’s have bestowed all the gifts they had to welcome you into their land.

BEYOND THE CLOUDS

Sela Pass is one of the many examples of this Grace bestowed, where words fall short of any explanation, thus I thought it best to put photographic expressions of how the lake changes its colours with the movement of the Sun.

 O! SELA PASS

You also cross to salute the brave soldiers of Indo-China War of 1962 at Jaswant Garh where a 24 by 7 food canteen is run by the soldiers who still believe that their “Hero” Jaswant Singh, who fought alone to keep the enemies at bay, lives on. A hot cuppa of free tea is a must sitting on the hilltop, overlooking deep abyss from Jaswant Garh.

A 5 hour long journey finally brings me in to Tawang – at 10,000 ft. and a mesmerising sunset, blessing the land of the Buddha’s.

 

 

The Big Buddha

Tawang has a flavour of people; the small bylanes of local cusine, colourful clothes and Tibetan-Chinese cutlery – it comes alive at its annual Tawang Festival held every year in November.

 

 

 

 

 

Tawang’s destination search for every traveller finds its completion at the Indo-China border, where Indian Army man’s its bravest of the brave to guard its borders. Thanks to extended hospitality of Major Thapa, I am treated with hot “halwa” ( a traditional welcome dessert) at the height of 15000 ft.and seething cold wind that seeps through your skin even if you are layered all over!

MESEMERIZING ENROUTE INDO-CHINA BORDER

Frozen Lake

INDO-CHINA BORDER: THE BUMLA PASS

 

 

 

 Surprise! Surprise! Airtel China at the Border!

 

 

 

 

MADHURI LAKE named after Bollywood Diva Madhuri Dixit who filmed a popular Bollywood movie song in film “Koyla” with Shahrukh Khan, is actually called Sangestar Tso Lake – Divine!

The tough terrain, manned by thousands of soldiers across Arunachal, their devotion and dedication to safeguard our lives at the cost of theirs, raises my heart and hands in eternal salute!

 

Caution: Arunachal is a tough journey to do for any regular traveller, who has no penchant for adventure and discovery. But if you are ready for self-discovery and a spiritual quest of nature’s undiscovered paths – Arunachal enlightens and beckons you. So gear up the courage with-in, pack your bags (lightly) and drive-in to the elusive border of India that is truly “Land of the Rising Sun.”

There could be no better way to End your journey at Assam’s Kaziranga Wildlife Sanctuary and view the one horned Rhino at close quarters riding on an Elephant!

SUGGESTED ITINERARY FOR THE WANDERER

Delhi / Kolkata – Guwhati (Most India’s National carriers fly in)

Guwhati – Bomdila (by Road is the best and safest way to Drive On to Arunachal). There is an Air India flight from Guwhati – Tezpur (half way down Bomdila) but it mostly gets cancelled.

Bomdila: Stay for 3-4 days; Stay at Hotel Siphiyongphong, where hospitality and locations is at it’s best.

Dirang: You could also Stay at Dirang which is 2.5 Hrs away from Bomdila. But, that is only if you are on a silent retreat!

Bomdila – Tawang: 5 – 6 Hrs by Road

Tawang has many Hotels, but I stayed at Hotel Tayatha, which was superb!

Tawang: Plan a 4 day trip if you want to rest your back and visit all locations at your own pace to immerse in its beauty.

PERMISSION: You need an Inner Line Permit to visit Arunachal. This can be applied online (http://arunachalilp.com/)

BEST TIME : Mid October – November

Do book your travel (Hotel, Vehicle) 4-6 months in advance, if you want to visit Arunachal at this time of the year. Vehicles must be booked from Guwhati.