A MYSTERIOUS LANDSCAPE
A MYSTERIOUS LANDSCAPE
– Arunachal Pradesh
There are some parts of the world that, once visited, get into your heart and won’t go. For me, INDIA is such a place.
– Keith Bellows, National Geographic Society
For me, after travelling almost half of the globe, the discovery of Arunachal Pradesh in India has been a Nirvana.
I feel, the mysterious land of farthest North Eastern part of India that beckoned my spiritual soul, thus enlivening each pore into a speechless sojourn. The astonishing sights after every 5 km of drive of cascading waterfalls, dazzling colours of flora and fauna sprung into surprise crevices of rocky mountains, spectrum shades of aqua changing colours as per directives of the sun – Arunachal is the destination that a travellers spiritual dreams are made of.
Journey to Arunachal is a road less travelled, due to it’s has a lack of connectivity from major airports of the country. Although Arunachal’s mystery can be unravelled from any part of the State, but I tried the most alluring route leading to Tawang lying at 15000 ft. of Indo-China border.
I stepped into bordering State Assam by flight from Delhi to Guwhati in the misty weather of October-November, the best time to visit. Picked by my friendly companion driver Aziz, my spiritual quest was to visit the very famous Kamakhya Devi (Godess of strength and valour) in Guwhati. Kamakhya history is seeped in mysticism, occult and tantric traditions of Hindu religion, with some ancient and medieval facts that relate from 8th to 17th century.
The temple Godess or Shakti proclaims a sacrifice to be done at her altar, which I refused to do so, as I believe that no sacrifice of an innocent animal is required to please the “Mother” Kamakhya. It’s traditional Sindoor or red vermillion, which is supposed to be a blessing for desire fulfilment from the depth of its garbhagriha (cave like structure with-in deep down mother earth) which has shape of Yoni (female genital – that I could not see in the darkness of lamp light), was what I considered a blessing from beyond.
After an auspicious beginning, my climb to Arunachal was a 10 hour drive from Guwhati to Bomdila, with-in the most swirling roads that led into a steep uphill task of my big vehicle, a must for driving anywhere around Arunachal Pradesh. The long drive has never a tiring moment, as one is rejuvenated by nature’s gift of flora and fauna adorning the trees that bow down to welcome you to this land.
With its borders giving you a glimpse of Army camps at various places, Bomdila lies in the North-Western part of Arunachal Pradesh. A quaint town and a district headquarter, Bomdila is the seat of one of the largest monasteries of Arunachal Pradesh, besides famous Tawang. Gentse Gaden Rabgyel Lling monastery, built in 1965, it is situated at 8500 hundred feet above sea level. Young Buddhist lamas are taught the spiritual nuances and these young minds have a laughter of a thousand Buddhas.
Kamakhya Blessing
At Bomdilla Monastery
I was blessed to have had the opportunity to celebrate my most auspicious day of birth amongst the chanting of lamas in their prayer hall under the Buddha’s glorious blessed feet. The Monastery celebrates it’s annual Mask Dance festival, and the colour of demons with dramatic musical background score – is once in a lifetime experience, not to be missed.
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BOMDILA MONSTERY
The hospitality of Armed forces, with their disciplined extension in their personality and surroundings have kept the land of Arunachal as nature had bestowed – ‘sparkling’ clean! Be it the majestic mountainous paths or the water gushing across meandering roads, the Army jawans are deputed to keep the ‘gift’ of nature, blessed.
In my fortunate journey, I was welcomed by Major BB Thapa and his colleagues on a tour of their border and given an opportunity to salute the martyr at 10,000 ft. besides a served sumptuous breakfast that was truly a treat after having eaten boiled food for umpteen days – as a vegetarian, you have minimalistic choices! As a civilian, one constantly hears the stories of the tough life of jawans bordering and protecting, but it is only when one sees their living braving the terrain and weather to stand erect under any adversary, the hand spontaneously goes up to salute the brave!
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 A SALUTE …. TO THE BRAVE |
No journey in Arunachal can be complete without a visit to Buddha’s land and birth place of sixth Dalai Lama, Tawang. The quote “journey is the destination” stands as epitome of truth while travelling from Bomdilla to Tawang. Crossing small hilly town of Dirang, with its farm cultivation (more popularly called “Jhum”) on hilltops, leading to a tough spiral terrain, you climb and enter “the clouds.” It is as if God’s have bestowed all the gifts they had to welcome you into their land.
BEYOND THE CLOUDS
Sela Pass is one of the many examples of this Grace bestowed, where words fall short of any explanation, thus I thought it best to put photographic expressions of how the lake changes its colours with the movement of the Sun.
O! SELA PASS
You also cross to salute the brave soldiers of Indo-China War of 1962 at Jaswant Garh where a 24 by 7 food canteen is run by the soldiers who still believe that their “Hero” Jaswant Singh, who fought alone to keep the enemies at bay, lives on. A hot cuppa of free tea is a must sitting on the hilltop, overlooking deep abyss from Jaswant Garh.
A 5 hour long journey finally brings me in to Tawang – at 10,000 ft. and a mesmerising sunset, blessing the land of the Buddha’s.
The Big Buddha
Tawang has a flavour of people; the small bylanes of local cusine, colourful clothes and Tibetan-Chinese cutlery – it comes alive at its annual Tawang Festival held every year in November.
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Tawang’s destination search for every traveller finds its completion at the Indo-China border, where Indian Army man’s its bravest of the brave to guard its borders. Thanks to extended hospitality of Major Thapa, I am treated with hot “halwa” ( a traditional welcome dessert) at the height of 15000 ft.and seething cold wind that seeps through your skin even if you are layered all over!
MESEMERIZING ENROUTE INDO-CHINA BORDER
Frozen Lake
INDO-CHINA BORDER: THE BUMLA PASS
Surprise! Surprise! Airtel China at the Border!
MADHURI LAKE named after Bollywood Diva Madhuri Dixit who filmed a popular Bollywood movie song in film “Koyla” with Shahrukh Khan, is actually called Sangestar Tso Lake – Divine!
The tough terrain, manned by thousands of soldiers across Arunachal, their devotion and dedication to safeguard our lives at the cost of theirs, raises my heart and hands in eternal salute!
Caution: Arunachal is a tough journey to do for any regular traveller, who has no penchant for adventure and discovery. But if you are ready for self-discovery and a spiritual quest of nature’s undiscovered paths – Arunachal enlightens and beckons you. So gear up the courage with-in, pack your bags (lightly) and drive-in to the elusive border of India that is truly “Land of the Rising Sun.”
There could be no better way to End your journey at Assam’s Kaziranga Wildlife Sanctuary and view the one horned Rhino at close quarters riding on an Elephant!
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SUGGESTED ITINERARY FOR THE WANDERER
Delhi / Kolkata – Guwhati (Most India’s National carriers fly in)
Guwhati – Bomdila (by Road is the best and safest way to Drive On to Arunachal). There is an Air India flight from Guwhati – Tezpur (half way down Bomdila) but it mostly gets cancelled.
Bomdila: Stay for 3-4 days; Stay at Hotel Siphiyongphong, where hospitality and locations is at it’s best.
Dirang: You could also Stay at Dirang which is 2.5 Hrs away from Bomdila. But, that is only if you are on a silent retreat!
Bomdila – Tawang: 5 – 6 Hrs by Road
Tawang has many Hotels, but I stayed at Hotel Tayatha, which was superb!
Tawang: Plan a 4 day trip if you want to rest your back and visit all locations at your own pace to immerse in its beauty.
PERMISSION: You need an Inner Line Permit to visit Arunachal. This can be applied online (http://arunachalilp.com/)
BEST TIME : Mid October – November
Do book your travel (Hotel, Vehicle) 4-6 months in advance, if you want to visit Arunachal at this time of the year. Vehicles must be booked from Guwhati.
Section:: Journey
